Noob help with PS3 and UMS

[leatherlunch]

Hi there,

I was hoping someone could give me some pointers on how to make UMS work with my PS3. I tried the PMS and couldn't get it to work. I'd set it up and the PS3 could recognize it fine, but the videos would play laggy to the point of being completely unwatchable. Now, I discovered UMS and am having the exact same problem.

I know a fair amount about computers but networks are one of my weakest points. I'm not sure if something is set up incorrectly, making the network slow perhaps. Or maybe it's an issue with ports, or firewall exceptions? I dunno.

My set up is as follows:
router - TP-LINK Wireless Router WR541G/542G
wireless adapter - TP-LINK WN321G

Not sure what other intel to give you, so if you want me to explain something please let me know and I'll happily provide. I didn't do a debug report from UMS since I don't gather I'm having a bug issue, but I can do one if needed.

Thanks in advance.

[Triplefun]

Your 54mbs network is too slow. If you must use wireless then you need to invest in more modern 802.11n technology. Alternatively look at power line techologies.

[leatherlunch]

I see. I was worried about that.

I'm not against getting a new router, as I've had this one for quite some time. That said, my computer isn't that far from the PS3 in the room. How would I connect it directly? USB-USB? Or is that what you meant by powerline technologies?

Also, if I were to replace the router, I suppose the wireless dongle on the computer would have to be switched up as well, right?

[OzBrickie]

Easy Mate, here's some basic networking for ya.

Buy yourself a cheap 5 or 8 port Gigabit switch and three Cat6 network cables, as long as you can afford, a 2m isn't much cheaper than a 10m and longer cables are more useful at this early stage of your career. A 2m cable is called a patch cable and can be used if your router or switch is right next to the PC but it won't hurt to loosely bundle excess cable up. Try to keep network cables away from power cables as much as possible, I think the standard is 100mm but it's not ultra important. Just remember, if you want to learn network basics then not only is this the correct way but they are also really simple things you can do to ensure nice high speeds. If you find that you get little drop outs and server errors it is nearly always interference from power cables or loose connector plugs so make sure the plugs are those nice chunky flexi plastic ones with a sleeve that extends up the cable a little. The point where cable joins plug is the weakest link in the chain so that one is important. Bundle too tight and you risk getting what's called cross talk between cables, (not between pairs because CAT6 UTP cable must be shielded at the core, if it isn't then it's not CAT6.) If you are paranoid then buy shielded twisted pair (STP) cable. Expensive but good for short runs around your stereo and TV sets where you will probably have a spaghetti junction of cables. Network packets and electromagnetic interference don't mix.

Plug a cable from PS3 to switch, one from router to switch and one from Computer to switch. Remove any wireless card or dongles. Forget wireless, from now on it's only for phones, tablets and sending emails from your laptop by the pool. Put all future PC's you may add on the same workgroup, avoid windoze homegroups, disable your firewall on the PC's (not the router) and set the PC's and the PS3 to use the DHCP server in your router to auto configure their IP address and find your Gateway (Router) and DNS servers etc. Your router will already be doing that for your wireless clients. Then turn everything off including any wireless clients.

Turn on router, then switch, then PC's one at a time and check you can browse the internet from each. Then boot the PS3 and do a network check from it. You should have IP addresses with the first 3 sets the same and the last set all different. The subnets should be the same as well as the gateway IP which will be the same as all the others but end in 254. DNS servers should be the same but that is not necessary any more as the router simply forwards DNS requests to your ISP anyway. IP address should be something non routable like 10.0.0.1 which has a subnet of 255.255.255.0 and the routers IP will therefore be set at 10.0.0.254. Google non routable IP address ranges, it doesnt't matter which one you use as long as it is non routable.

Voila! Happy HD movies

OH, try to save up for a new router mate. Once you get into it you will find that things like uPnP, 5GHz wireless, built in print/file server, VPN etc etc are just friggin lovely!!! And when it comes to parts, it's the same as building a PC. Buy the best you can afford at the time, don't be a tight arse. You will thank yourself (and me hopefully) in the long run.

Cheers and Beers

Oz

[leatherlunch]

Hi Oz,

I appreciate your reply. However, I can't really rip apart the house right now to wire it all up.

From what I'm reading, powerline adapters may be my best bet. Does anyone here have any advice about those? I've read in a number of places not to have them on a surge protected powerbar, which is fine. That said, I will need to have both adapters that connect to a computer on a short extension cable with the other plug routed to a whack of A/V and/or peripheral devices. Is that okay to do, or will I be wasting my money trying that set up out?

The two powerline adapters I'm looking at are entry level ones by TP-Link and D-Link; the AV500 Nano and Powerline Mini, respectively. Both have reasonably good reviews. I gather AV2 is a more future proof way to go but I can't afford that right now.

Thoughts?